Monday, May 5, 2008

Commuter Cycling Technology




http://www.flevobike.nl/en/GreenMachine/greenmachine.html

http://www.powerskip.de/mainpage.html






http://goblinmotors.com/html/goblinaero_high_mpg_vehicle__c.html



Commuter Cycling Technology As fuel prices come up to a realistic level people are starting to wake up from their gasoline-induced life styles. Modern geared cycles are the most efficient transportation machines ever devised. In terms of energy input per mile nothing else comes close. I burn only about 620 calories to power my trike 10 miles round trip with a combined weight of 400 pounds (that’s equivalent to 500mpg!). Most Americans eat more calories than that for breakfast. However most people don’t have any leg muscle and don’t want to build any. If you need help getting up the hills or have bad knees, batteries of the future are here now. Lithium Ion batteries being much lighter per Watt (4 times the energy of standard lead acid batteries) Electric bikes are claiming much better mileage than I get because they are tested with much less weight on flat land.


This will need a motor (but will the suspension handle the batteries etc.?) and a seat with a back rest and a place to carry cargo!
http://apax.ca/









http://www.triobike.com/






Cheap bikes are more expensive than the high priced machines because they will not last as long, or just not do the job right, ie: wheel hubs that do not use cartridge type bearings become disposable when the bearings wear out, rim brakes eat rims with winter road grit, stainless steel spokes are essential for the weight of cargo, if not heavy duty plastic wheels, and aluminum bikes are not made to handle cargo. Only stainless steel bolts should be used, Standard bicycle bolts can rust so bad they could destroy the whole machine.


TRICYCLES are much easier to haul cargo with than bikes because of the slow speed balance problems when climbing hills. Even if you have a good trailer, balancing perched on top of two wheels can be a real work out even with extra low gears. Trikes are much better for heavy electric power systems that can be as much as 50lbs or more (because of the amount of batteries needed to get anywhere) Recumbent bikes are easier to travel long distance because they are not hard on your wrists and back, but you just can’t beat a mountain bike for climbing hills with a trailer, unless you have a motor on a recumbent trike.


LONG BIKES are easier to balance than short bikes at slow hill climbing speeds. Standard prone bikes are hard on your wrists and back, and can cause carpel tunnel syndrome. Don’t buy a bike until you know it will fit you; try Angle Lake Cyclery in Seattle (206) 878-7457 for test rides of recumbent bikes and trikes. Don’t buy an electric bike unless you know for sure that it will have enough power! I have seen these run out of power and have to be pushed up hill; Electric bikes need big motors to climb steep hills with cargo.


CHEAP BIKES are more expensive than the high priced machines because they will not last as long, or just not do the job right, ie: wheel hubs that do not use cartridge type bearings become disposable when the bearings wear out, rim brakes eat rims with winter road grit, stainless steel spokes are essential for the weight of cargo, if not heavy duty plastic wheels, and aluminum bikes are not made to handle cargo. Only stainless steel bolts should be used, Standard bicycle bolts can rust so bad they could destroy the whole machine.


Use stainless steel bolts only! Standard bicycle bolts can rust so bad they could destroy the whole machine. If you think these vehicles are too expensive, do the math on your car! (Purchase, maintenance, insurance, fuel) $1000 a month over its life is not unusual, even without environmental damage and the cost of war to keep the "black gold" flowing. A good bike is worth far more than the price tag. Walking may be cheaper but good shoes are not and spring loaded boots are about the same as a bike. (powerskip.de)


COLD & RAIN: it’s a pleasure to ride a bike in the rain if you can stay dry! Layers of florescent yellow hydro wick “safety high visibility” (wearguard.com) and/ or lightweight snugly woven merino wool base layers, vapor barriers like silk and nylon can be too cold when you stop pedaling in really cold weather (you need the moisture to leave the skin ASAP! If you sweat don’t use cotton in the winter. A loose fitting breathable rain jacket with removable arms, ski gloves (mittens with glove liners below 40), rag wool sox and waterproof running boots (arctic boots below 25) will help. But it’s easier to stay dry on a ubiquitously standard bike by using a rain poncho; they breathe better than a jacket.


LIGHTS. L.E.D ‘emitter’ technology (a small square yellow chip) has solved the brightness problem of solid-state lighting. Also known as high-flux LED they are sold in flashlights for as little as $25 (shiningbeam.com) and bicycle lights for $60 and up. I need at least 250 lumens (nite-hawk.com) on a dark road with no streetlights. They are also available in 12volt DC and will be in 120 volt AC soon.


PUNCTURE PROOFING TIRES: There is nothing worse than getting flat tires in cold wet weather, especially at night, I found a way to make sure it doesn’t happen: take an old tire (or new) slightly smaller than the one you use, and cut off both beads and most of the side walls with a coping saw. Used with extra thick tubes they are better than any tire liner ever made, the more hard bulk there is the more protection you have, use tires like Schwalbe Marathons on wide rims. Armadillo tires may be good enough by them self’s, but I use two extra tires per wheel. Most Kevlar belted tires are not puncture proof. Green slime and their liners are a total waste of money. Don’t believe the Nihilists.


BAD BACKS AND SEATS!

For bad backs the only thing to use is a laid back hard shell seat. More vertical mesh seats can cause a lot of pain for arthritis and pulled muscles.