Monday, November 14, 2016

MTB to e-Road bike:

full suspension longtail cargo bike in video 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1hVtEVQNvA


video


Converting a mountain bike to a electric road bike, is not has hard as you might think. Hub motors climb hills with cargo much better when built into a 20” wheel. And they need suspenstion.

  • Steel Suspension MTB frame made for 24”-26” wheels. Make sure that it takes a disc brake in the rear.
  • Longer spring loaded oil shock to push the drive axle down about 3 inches. But you may not even need as much road clearance for the pedals as on the MTB. And you could to get 155mm cranks arms.
  • Fork for 20” wheels. It may need a longer head tube extension welded on.
  • 16” x 2.25-2.5” (21” o.d.) 4-ply Scooter tires will fit on a 1.25” bicycle rim.
  • Wide bicycle fenders are a maximum of 2.25” wide for 26” tires. They bend easy with only a little heat.

I put a 19” (23”o.d.) x 2” wide moped tire on a 19”motorcycle rim for my MTB-cycletruck frame made for 24” tires. So a 17” x 2.5” tire would probably fit fine with out lowering the crank too much. Measure the clearance for a 2.75” wide tire.

Do not put a larger diameter tire in front than the rear unless you can keep the steer angle the same. If the trail increases with out more rake, it will cause steering problems (wheel flop).

20" wheels on mtb frame?



it can be very hard to find a frame
that will fit a 20" wheel

http://weldandbraze.blogspot.co.at/2013/07/it-works.html





Thursday, November 10, 2016

Rejoice! Capitalism is dying



https://twitter.com/kingdonaldtrum1



This is what happens when the rich are so desperate to maintain their status-quo that they don't know what to do. They had to pay a hack actor to sell austerity by demonizing 'foreigners' and the 'social safety net just so they can shock us into confusion so we don't know what is happening.

Crashing the economy, defunding education and the social safety net just so they can say it is broken and needs to be privatized will only serve to accelerate Capitalism’s end.

Even now many people fail to grasp the true meaning of the word “austerity”. Austerity is not eight years of spending cuts, as in the UK, or even the social catastrophe inflicted on Greece. It means driving wages and living standards down in the western world, for decades until they meet those of the middle class in China and India on the way up.


How Capitalism Is Dismembering America

Politicians trying to shift the blame away from their financiers have referred to the lowest-income 47% of Americans as the "takers," who enjoy government benefits at the expense of the high-earning one percent. But their claim is meaningless. The total amount paid out in 'welfare' (Temporary Assistance for Needy Families) is less than the investment income of just three of the most rich in a single year.


Market “vulture” capitalism is predicated on a set of presuppositions that are simply no longer viable given emerging technology. Everything the market expects in it's system structure, is being made obsolete. Think about customized Printable devices.

“Neo-liberalism” has morphed into a system 
(neo-fascism) programmed to inflict recurrent catastrophic failures . Class assault on the poor is disaster capitalism's “shock doctrine”!
annuity of coemption:
 new world order


The coming wave of automation, currently stalled because our social infrastructure cannot bear the consequences, will hugely diminish the amount of work needed; not just to subsist, but to provide a decent life for all.

However free information is corroding the “market’s” ability to form prices correctly. That is because “markets” are based on scarcity while information is abundant. The system’s defense mechanism is to form monopolies (coemption) of socially produced information. Constructing a fragile corporate edifice at odds with the most basic need of humanity, which is to use ideas freely, helping imperial capitalist
's grasp on our economy collapse. 

A whole business subculture has emerged over the past 10 years, which the media has dubbed the “sharing economy”. A good example would be a “recyclery” or a small garage business that re-configures recycled bikes into utility cycletrucks to give to people that will use them inplace of petroleum powered vehicles, or making them for a bike share project; subverting consumerism!


The old business paradigm of selling services without sharing the knowledge of the parts that can be done by the buyer, is on its way out! If communities can't learn to work together they will not survive!





     Duck for god king!?
Mainstream economics proceeds from a condition of scarcity, yet the most dynamic force in our modern world is abundant information. 

Market imperialism (neo-fascism) justifies it's existence by the recognition of the need to manage scarcity; but due to it's structural mechanics, actually promotes and rewards infinite consumption.

The business models of all our modern digital giants are designed to prevent the abundance of information.

Information is a machine for grinding down prices of things needed to support life on the planet. It is the “externalizations” of un-ownable information, and well-being generated by networked interaction and the rise of subculture production that will subvert repressive neo-fascist capitalism.

If we cannot implement a functional system built on abundant information, non-hierarchical work and the dissociation of work from wages; and force the imperialist banks to stop creating “Fictitious” capital. Every one will suffer badly, even the plutocracy. 

Philanthropists should support public sharing projects while they can.


The End of Capitalism
The end of capitalism has begun

….Thomas Jefferson 1743-1826


If you want to remain slaves of the bankers and pay for the costs of your own slavery, let the m continue to create money and control the nation's credit

Sir Josiah Stamp 1880-1941






Will Capitalism Destroy Civilization?

How Capitalism is Destroying Democracy


TheFailed ‘Reaganomics Experiment’ In Kansas Keeps Getting Worse

 “the Shock Doctrine”by Naomi Klein

Naomi Klein is right: Unchecked capitalism will destroy civilization




What is the electoral collage?

video


What is Gerrymandering?

video


What is capitalism?



video





video


What the rich don't want you to know:

video



Coemption is the process of buying up of the whole supply of a commodity for the purpose of obtaining a monopoly and controlling the price.


http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/coemption



Monday, October 24, 2016

Hub Motors for Cargo bikes?

This is the right place for a hub motor
 but a second drive chain is needed

You could use one of these YubaMundo mid-mounts
without the jack shaft and sprockets that are there
just to drive from the left side over to the right side.
But you will still need a sprocket adapter that
fits onto the free-hub body on the drive wheel,
to use a stronger #35 chain. And mount it behind a
5 or 6 speed cassette. But if you’re looking for
maximum efficiency, use a LightningRod's kit
To run only the axle there is a complex operation
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=45245
If you are thinking about a Stoke Monkey mid drive
consider this. This graph is done in a low gear
 and an even lower gear will work better but bicycle drive chains 
were made for only human power abilitys of about 1/3rd HP, so they wear 
out more often when you use an electric motor strong enough 
to climb steep hills with cargo. That is why I say mount your
 motor under the seat and drive the wheel through a gear reduction.


















The only reason to use a hub-motor is the width, they fit between the pedals.
And they are slower than long motors, making it easyer to gear down to the drive wheel.

A 16” wheel is a ratio of 1.6 to 1 of a 26” wheel.

Smaller drive wheels makes hub motors work better. But it is hard to find a cargo bike with a 16” wheel. Mounting the hub motor in the center will let you to build a lower gear. You could use an even lower gear for a steeper hill.

You can see from these graphs that it is hard to find a hub motor that will drive you up a 9% grade with 440lbs (200kg; total combined weight) at any speed with a one-to-one ratio as direct drive hub motors are. Even then the motors will have a tendency to over heat in just a few minutes.

Higher voltage will be like using a lower gear also it allows more wattage with out increasing the amperage. I didn't see any 36 volt hub motors that could climb any hills steeper than a 8.6% grade with the weight that I haul, with a 26” wheel. Although there maybe some. Lower gears use much less power than a one-to-one ratio.



If your hub motor seller does not have a graph like these, or cannot understand these graphs, do not buy from them!

Motor simulator graphs:

Converting a hub motor to a middrive motor
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=45245


eBike school:
http://www.ebikeschool.com/discover/learn/


At 36 volts the motor is slower but not as powerful















Pay close attention to the Motor Power Curve (Red Line) and the Black Curve (Load Line). Typically the Motor power curve will rise up in an arc, and then abruptly fall off on a straight line down to "0" The highest point (Apex) of the motor power curve is when the motor is demanding the full current output of the controller (and where it is least efficient).

If the Load line intersects to the right of the apex of the motor power curve, then the controller is powerful enough for the system. If the load line intersect the motor power curve to the left of the apex of the motor power curve, then the controller is too small, and we should look for a more powerful (higher current) controller. 

    The black Load Line shows the power required to propel the configured bike at any speed. This has nothing to do with the simulator - it reflects the same results you get from any standard bike speed calculator - basic physics - nothing to do with motors. This is all about aero drag, rolling coefficient, grade, etc.

    The red line is the mechanical power the motor can deliver at any speed where speed varies according to load not throttle. This is based on dyno data and Justin's modeling - this is the 'simulation' part and has nothing to do with drag, grade, etc.

    The intersection of these two lines is the point where the power to propel the bike is exactly equal to the power produced by the motor. This indicates the terminal speed for that bike configuration and load. This is simply a graphic solution to two separate sets of power equations (i.e. it could be done algebraically - the graphic solution is equally valid...)
This means that if you want know how much power it takes to push your bike to 35mph, you just turn off all the lines except the Load Line, configure the bike, then look at the power at 35mph... This is the amount of power required regardless of the motor or drive system. It's only when you play this curve against a specific motor that you get into the terminal speed, etc where the specifics of that motor/battery/controller can be balanced against the requirements of the bike/grade/etc.

For example, in the plot above, we see that it takes about 3200W (motor power) to push that bike to 45mph. Using the same efficiency as shown (86.9%) we see that although it takes about 2680W (battery power) to achieve 40mph, it would require 3200/.869 = 3680W (battery power) to get to 45mph - a fairly staggering increase for 5mph - but perfectly understandable when you look at the steepness of the Load Line at that speed.





















do not put a hub motor on the front wheel!

Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Cycle Tracter




a giant tire cargo bike
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=66488



















You ever wonder why e-bikes burn out so often? It is because they are built as cheaply as possible and because people want to use them much harder that they are built for. So why can't they build them right for heavy duty use?

People are so brainwashed by the bicycle industry that they think hub motors and kits of any well known motor-system are the things to use, even though hub motors are the least effecient for hill climbing and stop-n-go city driving. There are good reasons to build a bike with a non-hub direct rear drive. Mostly to keep from turning your bicycle into an illegal motorcycle with inadequate brakes. And still have enough power to climb the nasty hills that make my legs scream for help.


The controller type and setup have a significant effect on performance, not just the motor and gear ratio. Kelly controllers
have constant torque mode capabilities, in other words they have the capability to prevent amp multiplication at low RPMs that increases torque as the motor gets dragged down by increased load (at the same throttle setting). This prevents wasted energy at low RPMs where the motor is most inefficient and overheating abuses of the motor.

A 3000rpm motor will take a two or three stage reduction adding up to 18:1 to get the 26” wheel down to about 13mph a single stage reduction would take a sprocket larger than the drive wheel.

It would be easier to use a Lightningrod's kit that operates at about 90% efficiency, with 2 belt reductions before the third chain reduction to the drive wheel.

Or use a hub motor with a heat sensor, that drives at about 1500rpm or less, at the wattage listed on the label.

Gear reduction is the key to heavy hill climbing. A 9:1 ratio would be good for a 26” tire if the motor runs at about 1500rpm. That would be 16 tooth sprockets on the motor and 144 on the drive wheel. Or 18 on the motor and 162 on the wheel. Never use sprockets smaller than 12T, they will create excessive wear of the chain.


crank driven motor / motor driven wheel





The crank should drive the motor, if the motor drives the crank your top speed can be much faster than anything safe.

If you can find a motorcycle sprocket adapter that will fit the free-hub body it would be easy to use two chain drives on the cassette side.

  • Kelly controller (option of torque control throttle standard):
  • Sprocket adapter (may need a longer axle or shorter hub to fit)
  • #35 chain
  • Large motorcycle sprocket (to fit the chain)
  • Motor:
  • Throttle:
  • Battery (the most expensive part)
  • Cycle-Analyst power meter
You could use regenerative braking in the rear for your in-place of a break, if you have a good break in the front.


Mount the sprockets on the right
 side to keep the disc rotor clean.  


A #35 chain to the left hand side of the drive wheel is better than a BMX chain. The hard part is figuring out how to mount a large sprocket on the hub and still keep your disc brake.


I think it would be easier to use a belt drive with a large rim pulley on the drive wheel than any kind of drive chain, unless it has a two stage reduction. I could not find a sprocket large enough for a single reduction. But a 12inch child's bike rim makes a good enough pulley for a belt. Then a 1.5” belt pulley on the motor would be close to an 8:1 ratio.


It would be very easy to add sprockets to the right side if you could find an adapter for a light motorcycle sprocket for #35 chain to fit onto a free-hub body behind a 6 or 7speed cassette. Then a ratcheting one-way bearing on the motor, so you don't have to crank the motor when it is off.


And thinking about a greasy chain splashing road crud on a disc rotor, it would be best to use only a belt drive on the left side.



Regenerative braking:

Direct drive hub-motors even just for bicycle use are not a very good option for true cargo hauling ability at least in my experience. For a cargo hauling a manual transmission with manual clutch that allows aggressive downshifting regen braking (and also downshifting for getting those big loads moving or dragging them up hills) is a very good idea. Why do you think the big 18+ wheel tractor trailer rigs still use manual clutch transmissions? In-fact due to the greater downshifting regen braking ability of electric motors compared to IC compression braking the argument for this kind of drive system is even stronger for heavy cargo hauling.


Setting a controller for climbing steep hills with cargo:

Best to probably take a Kelly controller and set the output motor phase end amp limits to the exact same as the battery input side amp limit. That will give you nearly constant stable torque, if that's too low to do the controlled front wheel pop up you desire on take-off then slowly up the output motor phase end amps limit while leaving the battery input side amp limit the same which in each step will increase the bottom end torque slightly and just keep upping it in increments a little at a time until you get the level of bottom end torque that gives you what you want.

Choosing a battery

Try to carry enough battery to keep your discharge rate under 2c.
For 10 amp hour size, that would be a 20 amp controller and about 700 watts

Belt or Sprocket Adapters ???



Fixed Gear Drives

BIG BLOCK alternative Motor (for a larger motor)




NOTE: The motor wires are color for color on the Lyen controller (post 12 on page 2 of this thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=59122&start=25)





http://www.bicycledesigner.com/48t-motorized-bicycle-sprocket.html